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DameDarkness -> How To Make Leather and Rubber Paddles (12/25/2004 2:03:55 PM)
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Sent to me Via E-mail Origional Source Unknown!
Leather and Rubber Paddles
Paddles can be a very enjoyable impact toy, and are especially good for warm-ups. This plan can be adapted to a wide variety of paddles sharing some common traits: a wooden handle and a flexible business end. The striking surface can be made of leather or rubber.
Leather paddle blades can be made with sole bends, a very heavy leather used for shoe soles (about 1/4" thick, sold as '12 iron' weight), or two pieces of 10oz latigo glued together. For rubber paddles, I use rubber cutting board sold by Tandy. Both hold up well, although the rubber is cheaper and more durable.
I recommend oak for the handles, but any hardwood is suitable. Ideally, find a shop selling pre-cut pieces of 1/4" thick stock. This makes things _much_ easier. Obviously, working with wood requires a whole new set of tools! You must be able to cut, drill, shape, and sand. I use a small, table-mount scroll saw, drill press, and the Dremel Moto-Tool with a small sanding drum and router table/bit. Less sophisticated tools can certainly be used! Invest in some very fine (400 grit or so) sandpaper for the finish work.
The final attachment of the blade to handle is completed the old-fashioned way in this project: friction-fit dowels. Screws may also be used, but doweled joints look great and hold up well.
Appearance, durability, and resistance to fluids is definitely enhanced by a couple of coats of polyurethane. Semi-gloss or gloss finishes are my personal preference. Staining is optional, and can result in a nicely glowing darker look, although unstained oak has it's own beauty.
Difficulty: Moderate
Tools
Leatherworking: Mallet, Utility Knife, Edge Beveler #2
Woodworking: Saw of some sort, Drill or Drill Press, Sandpaper, Drum Sander (optional), Router (optional)
Parts Checklist
Leather or Rubber sheeting, 1/4" thick
1/4" Oak
3/8" Dowel
White glue
Contact cement
Steps
1 - Plan Your Paddle
After understanding this project, plan your paddle. Decide on a blade material, length, and width. Blade length works best between 12" and 18", with 1-2" in the handle. The handle will match the width of the blade.
2 - Cut Blade
Cut the blade out of your chosen material, to the desired size. Bevel the edges if desired. Sample blade shapes are shown in Diagram 1.
3 - Cut Wood
Diagram 2 shows rough outlines of possible handle shapes. Each handle is made from three pieces of 1/4" stock. The outside pieces are identical, and are the full length of the outlines in Diagram 2. The middle piece is only the lower half of this outline, to the dotted line. This leaves a 1/4" slot about 1.5" deep to seat the blade, indicated by diagonal lines in the side view.
Process Picture 1, Panel 1 shows this step using a Craftsman scroll saw. On the saw table, note six cut pieces. These will become two handles.
4 - Glue Handles
Use contact cement to glue the three pieces of wood together (in the right order!). Take your time, making certain that the edges line up as much as possible. Use a clamp to squeeze glued pieces tightly together. Process Picture 1, Panel 2 shows my two handles being assembled. You can just make out the yellowish cement coating the pieces.
After assembly, you may need to trim the edges even. This can be done with a scroll saw, drum sander, of by hand with a wood file.
5 - Round Edges
Round the edges of your handle, with a file, coarse sandpaper, or a router with a convex bit. Process Picture 1, Panel 3 shows the rounded handles, sitting on top of my little router table. This router is really a Dremel accessory, and uses the same Moto-Tool that I use for lots of things. Good way to do it.
In this picture, you'll also see markings on the larger handle. I use the scroll saw at a 45-degree angle to shape this down to a more rounded shape. Panel 4 shows this handle after the angled cuts. It will be smoothed and shaped to a rounded feel.
After the basic shape is done, get out your sandpaper and go to work. The more you sand, the nicer the finished product will be. Start with a coarse grit (100) and work your way to a glassy finish with very fine paper.
6 - Attach Blade
Glue the blade into the handle, preferably with contact cement. Next drill at least two 3/8" holes through both handle and blade, as shown in Process Picture 2, Panel 1. Cut small pieces of 3/8" dowel, slightly longer than the thickness of the handle (3/4", unless something is wrong!). Apply a thin coating of white glue inside the holes and push a piece of dowel through each. The dowel should protrude a bit on each side. Sand these protrusions down, level with the handle itself. The result looks like Process Picture 2, Panel 2.
7 - Finish Handle
Apply at least two coats of polyurethane to the wooden handle. Prior to the first application, use a stiff, clean brush to clear dust and residue out of the grain. Sand lightly between coats. You are done!
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