pixelslave
Posts: 1444
Joined: 8/19/2006 Status: offline
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quote:
ORIGINAL: instynctive Well.. I just happened to have finished MY home made humbler.. :-) http://s142.photobucket.com/albums/r99/instynctive/toys/?action=view¤t=cropped.jpg The dimensions on it are: Length - 13" Width - 2" Depth - 1.5" (I used two 3/4" thick boards) The hole is Length - 3" Depth - 1" The bolt assemblies are off My old Craftsman router table... they just happened to be a good size and worked out for this project. If you have a CAD-viewing program, I could send you My DWG file... Instynctive, Mistress has had me busy all weekend, so haven't had the time to reply. Thanks for the link. It didn't show me quite what I wanted to see however, but what you've made is similare to what I have in mind in many ways. I am able to view DWG files BTW. I'm a mechanical engineer by education and work in computer graphics these days. So no problem there. The things I work in are more 3D modeling/animation related, so it may not be to precise scale (which I can adjust anyway), but the proportions are what I'm primarily looking for. BTW, In my haste, I inadvertently stated in my OP that I would be using 7/8" thick oak in the final product when in actually it is 3/4" thick. Sorry if that caused any confusion. What I didn't understand from your dimensions, quoted above, perhaps from the way they were stated, is when looking at the "oval" that captures the testicals, what is the height of the oval you've used which is obviously less than 1.5" as you've used two 3/4" boards? I'm thinking of starting with an oval that is 1" diameter at it's centerline, and 3/4" diameter radius holes ending at the poings where they are just touching the ends of the horizotal split-line profiles between the boards with it being 1-5/8" wide, and the hole smoothly transitioning up to the 1" diameter height at it's peak in the center. I certainly wouldn't want to go larger than 1-1/8" height for the opening at the center" (which only leaves 3/16" of wood at the top and bottom). From the dimensions you've stated above, have you made your opening for the scrotum 1" in total height at it's center and 3" in width, which I assume must mean it has a lot of taper frpm the center to the ends and a fairly small radius on the ends (I'm guessing 3/16" in total diameter or less)? I'll be starting with 3" wide oak for the finished version, but just as PlayfulOne wisely suggested, I'll be testing the scrotum cutout profile using 3/4" square pine that's screwed together tightly with carriage bolts and wing nuts that I already had on hand to test out the design. Mistress has helped me make a heavy guage paper template to use to design the shape of the larger 3" wide version so that it can come forward and wrap around the back of the legs/hamstrings which I don't see as a problem. I'm just primarily concerned about creating the opening for the scrotum and having enough wood left around it so that it doesn't tend to want to break. I'd also prefer not to recreate the wheel when it's already been designed by cro-magnons or neanderthals and has worked well for centuries with only some tweaking here and there, although adding spokes and rubber tires to them has been a really big improvement over the basic stone version! - pixel Collared to Majik
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Chivalry isn't dead! It's for those who have it in their hearts & are willing to be taught. It's a way of life, a code of honor; this one's armor still needs some polishing!
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