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Choosing handcuffs - 11/17/2013 12:27:00 PM

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I regret my lack of knowledge from when I bought a pair of handcuffs about ten years ago, as I ended up with a pair that had an unlock switch on them (which kind of defies the point in them IMO) and also they would unlock themselves regardless of that switch with the slightest of encouragement.

I'm guessing that I should look for 'double locking' handcuffs to avoid the second problem, but does anyone have any tips apart from this? I see a lot on ebay that look the same as ones I've seen with suppliers I've used before but for half the price or less.

RE: Choosing handcuffs - 11/17/2013 1:55:09 PM

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Don't go cheap on handcuffs. The last thing you want is for the locking mechanism to jam or break...

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(in reply to mike177)

RE: Choosing handcuffs - 11/17/2013 3:07:14 PM

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I always go for law enforcement grade, there are plenty of police gear websites that sell them. Luckily we have an H & H "camping store" which instead has a surplus of ski masks and knives, I love my city! Anyways if you go to the guy at the counter and ask for hand cuffs he'll first pull out some flimsy BS with the safety latch, then I just go all dead eye and ask for the real ones.

My favs are Smith & Wesson in carbon steel, nice blue hue, super sturdy and heavy.

Just like these: http://www.handcuffwarehouse.com/smwemo100blb.html

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RE: Choosing handcuffs - 11/17/2013 4:59:24 PM

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S&W cuffs are ne plus ultra in my book. Stay away from KPI's, unless you're prepared to drive out the pins and polish everything inside with crocus cloth. They're 1:1 copies of Smiths, but rougher finish inside. Martin's offers some really good offerings, Darbies and similar, plus some proprietary designs that look awesome.

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Age and treachery will always overcome youth and ambition.

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RE: Choosing handcuffs - 11/20/2013 7:57:22 AM

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I have 2 sets of the nickel Smith & Wesson regular handcuffs, 1 hinged pair as well as 2 sets of they're leg shackles. I love them all! They have worked flawlessly for many years. They are double locking and are very secure.

(in reply to MasterCaneman)

RE: Choosing handcuffs - 11/20/2013 2:48:59 PM

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My man mostly uses the SW handcuffs he picked up in the 80s. When comfort is desired, we use sheepskin-lined leather cuffs.

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RE: Choosing handcuffs - 11/20/2013 11:21:27 PM

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I use a set of medical-grade restraints because they offer the options of being padlocked or secured with a carabinier. I did sand some of the rough edges inside with an emery board, but no fuzzy cuffs for this cat. I like my partners to know they're restrained. The most I'll allow is either sweat bands or gloves if the edges of my steel irritated them. This thread reminds me, I should give them an inspection and oiling. It's been quite some time since they've seen the outside of my gear bag.

_____________________________

Age and treachery will always overcome youth and ambition.

The supreme art of war is to subdue the enemy without fighting. ~ Sun Tzu

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RE: Choosing handcuffs - 11/21/2013 7:58:21 AM

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I have to agree with MasterCaneman Smith&Wesson cuffs are the best you can get and well worth every cent they cost.
I also used to have a set of S&W thumb cuffs and those are truly diabolical if used correctly you do NOT get out of those.

(in reply to MasterCaneman)

RE: Choosing handcuffs - 11/22/2013 12:56:29 PM

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Actually, "double locking" is the safety measure on handcuffs, whereas they lock to prevent them from ratcheting closed once a pin is depressed, hence the term double locked. This keeps them from getting tighter and cutting off circulation just from sitting or leaning on them while say, in the back of a squad car. As far as I know, only professional grade cuffs come with this feature (novelty handcuffs don't tend to worry about safety since as you say, they have the the unlock lever). A sign of good quality cuffs: sturdy construction, invisible or hard to see welds and seams, and some would say heavy. These all tend to show that the cuffs can take a beating and not only keep working, but not warp or get jammed. Other than that, most officers have their preferences, regardless of convention. As for kink, as long as it is well made, has the double lock, and you have at least one spare key, you are good to go

(in reply to mike177)

RE: Choosing handcuffs - 11/24/2013 3:04:24 PM

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Smith and Wesson cuffs have the heritage, but for the most advanced design consider ASP. Three advantages - key access on both sides, double locked cuffs are unlocked by turning the key in a single direction, two or three part pawl making handcuffs much more difficult to shim open. The pawl is the part of the lock that holds the swinging arm in place.

(in reply to Darkfeather)

RE: Choosing handcuffs - 11/28/2013 9:49:11 AM

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I've just bought a pair (S&W), a somewhat more solid product than the previous pair I bought :)

Thanks for the advice all.

I'm surprised that there doesn't seem to be a UK vendor for them though.

(in reply to TrueCaptivity)

RE: Choosing handcuffs - 11/28/2013 10:12:58 AM

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Eh, took 5 minutes to search google, and came up with a multitude of handcuff manufacturers based in the UK. Short list I came up with off hand: TCH, Hiatt, Chinese, Clejuso, Peerless, Rivolier, Russian, Alcyon, Ralkem, Alfa Proj, Yuil, Kyoung Chang and Grip Restraint. Since I am from NJ, I can't tell you who of these are better than the other, but some quick research on your part would find that out, and net you a local based police issue supplier

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RE: Choosing handcuffs - 11/30/2013 10:19:54 AM

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Of your list, i believe only Hiatt is manufactured in the UK.

Any of the US brands are difficult to obtain overseas because the US prohibits export of restraints without the purchaser being licensed.

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RE: Choosing handcuffs - 11/30/2013 11:40:30 AM

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quote:

ORIGINAL: PainCompliant

Of your list, i believe only Hiatt is manufactured in the UK.

Any of the US brands are difficult to obtain overseas because the US prohibits export of restraints without the purchaser being licensed.

I beg to differ. This is straight from said google search http://www.thehandcuffshop.com/home.cfm Note all listed manufacturers are there, and the company is based in the UK. Hence why I suggested using google in the first place... Like I also said, I wasn't about to do any research on the individual manufacturers. But a UK based company, selling them, was a good start

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RE: Choosing handcuffs - 12/2/2013 12:48:56 PM

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I've bough all of mine from www.galls.com

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RE: Choosing handcuffs - 12/14/2013 5:55:38 PM

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Considered leather cuffs and rope? Are you going for the steel binding affect with the tight chaffing and pinching and the pain associated with it?

Actually, that sounds interesting! Thanks for the thread.

Arturas

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RE: Choosing handcuffs - 3/12/2014 10:08:47 AM

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An easy way to identify better quality (police-style) handcuffs vs. toy metal cuffs is the included key. If the handcuffs you're looking at include keys like the image below, you're looking at police-style cuffs. If they include the clover-leaf shaped key with the thicker shaft, you're getting a toy replica, which as many here have already said, is a cheap toy that can easily fail.

(in reply to mike177)

RE: Choosing handcuffs - 3/12/2014 11:00:29 AM

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Beware, KPIs, while essentially a copy of S&W regulation cuffs, sometimes do not accept am S&W key, depending on their vintage. Older ones (90's back) require a KPI factory key.

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Age and treachery will always overcome youth and ambition.

The supreme art of war is to subdue the enemy without fighting. ~ Sun Tzu

Goddess Wrangler

(in reply to MaitresseErica)

RE: Choosing handcuffs - 8/27/2014 5:22:46 PM

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The handcuffshop mentioned above is OK. I obtained a replacement set from them when i lost my issue set. Surplus stores also often carry them.

Things to consider

There are two types of cuff
Arrest or short journey cuffs
Transit cuffs or shackles

Arrest cuffs are the most common carried by police, customs and other law enforcement. They come in many styles but use a common key like the one pictured, this of course means that if a prisoner manages to escape custody it is not that difficult to get then off. This is because the person who puts the cuffs on may not be the person who takes them off.

The other type are used for prisoner transport, they are usually heavier, have longer chain linkages and often unique keys.

Double locking

This means that the ratchet can be locked so that the cuff does not over tighten. This can take a number of forms, a post to press on the edge of the cuff, a hole on either the edge or the flat of the cuff (that's what the little knob on the key is for). Finally via the key hole. Usually the ratchet is unlocked via the keyhole with the key turned anti clockwise and then clockwise to unlock the cuffs. The cuffs should not unlock with the ratchet locked. If we were given a set with the post, we always cut them off level with the body of the cuff so as not to lock them accidentally, as we usually put them on by applying them to a wrist and letting the locking arm swing round and engage the lock, this does not happen if the ratchet is locked.

Linkage

There are three basic forms of linkage
Short chain
Pivot. This is where the two cuffs are directly attached, looks like a hinge.
Kwikcuffs, basically chain cuffs with a solid plastic insert that makes the cuffs rigid.

Most surplus stores will carry cuffs of one sort or another.

Strangely enough real cuffs are often cheaper than the toy/fantasy ones.

Hope this helps.

Don
(UK based)

(in reply to MasterCaneman)

RE: Choosing handcuffs - 9/14/2014 6:44:00 AM

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if your going for metal you want something that is comfortable when locked behind you anfd you are on your back with your weight on top of them for hours.
Derby pattern are the only ones that work for me. snap action locking and bracelet style is as per rolex wrist strap so bends to fit tight. photos in my etlif profile or google derby pattern cuff, ignore their weight they work and are available cheaply

(in reply to Doncroyd)

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