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f*ucking machine diy - 11/25/2004 7:56:12 PM

Posts: 5
Joined: 11/13/2004
From: Roanoke VA
Status: offline

a friend asked me about building one of these. In theory it doesn't look all that complicated. but after one unsucessful proto-type I figure someone on here is bound to have built one of these or have some input on how it can be done.

Simple good ole in-out action will use voltage regulator for a speed control. The motor turns the metal plate. The shaft is attached to the plate and inside a metal tube holding it in place which should pull in back and forth the diameter of the plate.

Only problem is it didn't work. The motor just binds up and I don't get a smooth up down action that would so pleasure a sub.

Figure before I go spending bucks on a bigger motor I'd see if anyone could clue me in on a way to build my own fucking machine insstead of paying those ridiculus prices.

My other idea was to use a reciprocating saw but I'm unsure about that trigger switch and speed control may be an issue.

Thanks in advance for any adivce or ideas.

Sir Koren

RE: f*ucking machine diy - 11/26/2004 7:51:35 AM

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this is the main site:

http://www.saroftreve.com/workshop/projects.shtml

This is the area where they talk about making one:

http://www.saroftreve.com/workshop/tfm.shtml

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Roe

People always ask me why I do these things . . .
It's because I can!

(in reply to SirKoren)

RE: f*ucking machine diy - 11/26/2004 8:09:21 AM

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Joined: 1/31/2004
From: Washington
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When you get it working can we borrow it? Having a fucking machine used on me when bound is one of my fantasies. It's one reason i like the hogtied site so well, lots of pics there.

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proudsub

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RE: f*ucking machine diy - 11/26/2004 10:50:26 AM

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Joined: 11/13/2004
From: Roanoke VA
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Thanks so much for the links. That is exactly the information I needed.

When I get it built and running I'll post a pic of it

(in reply to theroebabe)

RE: f*ucking machine diy - 11/26/2004 3:35:34 PM

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Your welcome does that mean i get to take a turn too heheheheh pretty please???

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Roe

People always ask me why I do these things . . .
It's because I can!

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RE: f*ucking machine diy - 11/26/2004 3:43:41 PM

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Check out fuckingmachines.com they have many to choose from. Better yet they have little downloads you can play. Without purchasing a membership. It will give you ideas of machines they have used. I do believe a recriprocating saw is used widely. Not sure though of the issues that may arise from them.

(in reply to SirKoren)

RE: f*ucking machine diy - 11/26/2004 3:57:25 PM

stef

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A reciprocating saw is somewhat limited. Short/fixed stroke length and difficult to control speed and position. It's only saving graces are that it's reasonable lightweight and inexpensive.

~stef

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RE: f*ucking machine diy - 11/26/2004 5:24:27 PM

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Joined: 11/13/2004
From: Roanoke VA
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Surely! I'd be more than happy to let you borrow my new toy once I
get it put together. You may have to come visit me though as the motor
alone weighs 62# Its not going to be a portable unit. I have just the
spot to put it though and should you ever be in SW Virginia swing on by
and give it a whirl. I

this is of course assuming I actually win the motor off ebay otherwise
its back to square one as the retail price on these monsters is outside
the budget.

I looked long and hard at the reciprocating saws and rejected them for the very reasons mentioned.

Sir Koren

(in reply to stef)

RE: f*ucking machine diy - 11/27/2004 7:05:41 AM

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Well i wish you luck on ebay!

and hmm maybe have to make a road trip but would have to bring the dog what to do what to do ! lol

I know for a while i was looking for what i called a milking machine Air-shields diaphrame pump Compressor and Aspirator (the official name i think) that a previous dom had and the retail price for that was wayyyyyyy too much.

_____________________________

Roe

People always ask me why I do these things . . .
It's because I can!

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RE: f*ucking machine diy - 11/27/2004 11:01:40 AM

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Joined: 10/1/2004
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I think your trouble is the attatchment of the rod to the plate I bet its binding somehow does it have ballbearings so that it turns easier? and a side note is the engine set up for variable speed? it just seems that variable speed would have so many uses? SHIT you got me wanting to build one now LOL how did you do the housing mechanism for the rod? is it well lubed? let me know...Mike

(in reply to SirKoren)

RE: f*ucking machine diy - 11/28/2004 10:03:30 PM

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Joined: 11/13/2004
From: Roanoke VA
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Ebay rocks!

The Baldor motor is 1/3 horsepower , 110 volt , 7.4 amps and runs at 1725 RPM.

The gearbox is from Alling-Lander Company. It has a chain and cable drive connection. Continuous duty , 60-1 ratio , 1800 RPM input and has 620 output of torque.

Model 2192-F-03-065.

These motors and gearboxes are from American Stairglide Deluxe Units.

(The chairs that bring you up and down steps.)

They run in both clockwise and counter clockwise rotation depending how you wire them up. The gearbox , which is the big value here , has a chain drive and cable drive attachment so they can be used in a huge variety of ways. The drive attachment is held on by a key to a 7/8" shaft. It weighs in at about 62lbs

I will of course be using a voltage regulator to slow this monster down. Other than that it seemes ideal for this task. more power than you'll ever need

(in reply to theroebabe)

RE: f*ucking machine diy - 12/11/2004 7:50:15 AM

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From: Charlottesville, VA, but in Orlando for a temp job
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If you're using a 110 volt motor, for gods sake put a Ground Fault Interrupter (GFI) plug on the thing!

My current high power home made toy department has a fucking machine based on a battery powered reciprocating saw, (1/2" stroke, 350 to 500 strokes per minute depending on which dong is attached, variable speed mod in the works), A vibrator made from an 18 volt detail sander, and an egg sized egg vibe with the innards of a car back massager unit inside it.

(in reply to SirKoren)

RE: f*ucking machine diy - 12/11/2004 8:01:33 AM

Posts: 86
Joined: 8/22/2004
From: Charlottesville, VA, but in Orlando for a temp job
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As to the original posters diagram....

Put a hinge on the shaft between the sleeve and the orbital arm attached to the wheel. Go look at the side of almost any steam powered locomotive, you'll see what I mean. They used pretty much the same setup, but were converting linear motion to circular motion instead of the other way round like you are doing.

This will make the actuator end have a more linear motion, with less wiggle.

A_G

Edited 'cause I kin spill reeel gud.

< Message edited by AlphaGeek -- 12/11/2004 8:06:55 AM >

(in reply to AlphaGeek)

RE: f*ucking machine diy - 12/27/2004 2:18:39 PM

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You can't run a shaft straight off of the drive plate guy. It needs a knuckle link,like a peice of flat stock as a connector. Basically this is just a piece a few inches long with a hole in each end.

Look at the drive mechanism in old steam locomotives-it's the same thing.

(in reply to AlphaGeek)

RE: f*ucking machine diy - 12/30/2004 9:32:11 PM

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Joined: 8/22/2004
From: Charlottesville, VA, but in Orlando for a temp job
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Ok, So it's a knuckle link. So I didn't know the correct terminology. LOL

I just knew it needed one of those... one of those... things! LOL

A_G, not a steam power or mechanical drivetrain geek by profession. :)

(in reply to RealityFix)

RE: f*ucking machine diy - 12/31/2004 6:34:55 AM

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Joined: 12/26/2004
Status: offline

Well, I'll throw in my 2 cents on some design ideas.

I think you're overspeccing your motor requirements. 620 lbs of torque out of the gearbox is enough force to make a new orifice.

I'll reccomend to other alternative motor types that will be much lighter, cheaper, plenty strong, and safer as they are 12V DC.

My number 1 choice would be a wheel chair motor. Good torque, plenty of RPM. Not cheap unless you mug somebody for their wheel chair(for which you would surely burn in hell).

My number 2 choice would be a electric window motor. Cheap from an auto salvage yard. One for the rear indow of an SUV would be ideal as they are a bit beefier than the ones for you regular car door windows.

I've used both types of motors for animating stuff on floats and theater sets. Other advantages are the option of battery usage(i.e. car batteries)or using a AC/DC tansformer for powering it(ideally set it up for both) and portability compared to that 62# monster(not counting that gearbox weight either I imagine).

And a note of warning-with the potential power that monster you're planning will have, DO NOT use a rheostat type voltage regulator, a digital one with overload protection is vastly preferrable. Rheostats are fine for DC apps, and non-precision AC appliances, but just one instance of rheostat arc, which may only last a fraction of a second, could send a very powerful surge of mechanical enrgy into the nether regions of your impalee. And a non-planned 620 ft/lbs of thrust would be like catching a rhino horn in the crotch.

Good luck and keep us posted. I may actually get off my ass and put together one too, I think I even have a left over motor from the last set I did....

(in reply to SirKoren)

RE: f*ucking machine diy - 12/31/2004 6:42:27 AM

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Joined: 12/26/2004
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One more quick safety idea you could use on that beefy monster you're planning would be a shear pin.

Some where on your shaft(the middle seems best), you could use a section of tube about 6' long and use it to socket part of your shaft. One end would be permanently affixed, and the other end could be secured with a plastic pin ran through it crossways. In the event that too much power gets sent through it, the plastic pin would break, and the shaft would move safely inside the section of tube rather than possibly injuring the user/victim.

If you can't visualize what I'm saying let me know and I can sketch it out.

(in reply to SirKoren)

RE: f*ucking machine diy - 1/4/2005 6:33:49 PM

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Joined: 10/7/2004
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You know I am no electrician, but what you guys are talking about seems pretty dangerous........... Wait, I am an electrician, and what you are talking about is dangerous. The motor of a reciprocating saw can kill you if you are grounded and get hit with stray voltage. I would ask that you at least use some kind of ground fault circuit interrupter to minimize that risk. It is not that voltage (ac or dc) but the amperage that kills------and it only takes millivolts to kill------so please be careful.

(in reply to SirKoren)

RE: f*ucking machine diy - 1/4/2005 9:43:24 PM

cynicalsuffering

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Joined: 10/7/2004
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wow...i live near roanoke...i'd like to see that thing...lol

(in reply to BigP828)

RE: f*ucking machine diy - 1/5/2005 7:23:47 PM

nella

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Joined: 12/30/2004
From: Norway
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HUm...christmas gift idea for my Master next year, i can only imagine HIm enyoying tying me to one that would use my butt unthil it was sore enoh for me to beg him to stop it, oh yes, need to learn how to build one of theese.

(in reply to cynicalsuffering)

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