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Cross Question - 1/25/2006 2:17:10 PM

Slipstreme

Posts: 817
Joined: 1/1/2006
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Im in the process of building a Saint Andrew's Cross. The thing is, I can't figure out what type of hardware I need for it. I want it to be able to hold quite a bit of wieght and take quite a bit of strain, such that the cross is virtually unbreakable. I'm not too worried about how to build one. That I have instructions and websites for. However, I am worried about the physics involved, and I was hoping maybe someone here knows a bit about materials science, or at least knows the hardware well, who can recommend what I should look for at the hardware store. I was there today looking for a hinge that would enable me to make a foldable cross and the one I was looking at that seemed like it might work, someone told me would only hold about 100lbs. I also dont know what kindof bolts I should get. Yes I am hoping on a portable, easy to store, design.

Thank you for your consideration.

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RE: Cross Question - 1/25/2006 3:27:29 PM

RubberWitch

Posts: 1368
Joined: 7/27/2005
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Well, I'd use seasoned timber, partly for strength, partly for look. Using 2 layers of wood, screwwed together (many short countersunk woodscrews) would add strength.
If you do it this way, why not cut your top planks so the two struts sit in each other. (place the two planks over at the right place to make the cross, and then mark and cut out the diamond shapes on both piecse, using a handsaw, or jig if you're lazy). Once you've screwwed the half planks to the full planks, you should have two thick planks that nestle, forming your X. You can now drill 2-4 holes through the centre diamond and bolt the thing together. (you may want to use a really thick drill bit to drill into the top plank a little way, allowing the bolts to sit flush with the surface). Securing the bolts with wingnuts would allow you to dismantle the cross pretty quickly in case the vicar pops round.
For a finish, A few coats of ASP (all surface preparation) will prevent splinters, without taking away from the wood, though Hammerite is pretty durable (will prob still need a final coat of ship builders varnish just to make sure).
When drilling for bolts, screws etc, it's always an idea to work about 1" in from the edge to avoid wood splintering (this depends on the wood used, but 1" is usually safe)
Hope this helps

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(in reply to Slipstreme)

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RE: Cross Question - 1/25/2006 11:00:45 PM

UberLord

Posts: 13
Joined: 5/25/2005
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Hey,

ok the easiest way is to go large... all your hardware should be oversize for 2 reasons, 1 looks, 2 strength....

the wood can be whatever you like, I would use 2 lengths of 4x4, and I would join them by rebating each to half thickness at the join using a tennon saw and chisel, and then fastening them with 2 half inch countersunk bolts. 2x6's would work, I would laminate them as suggested above, though gluing them would be better than screwing alone.

eyebolts come in 2 styles which are exremely different in strength. there are those with forged eyes, that are continuous eyes, and those which are bent into eyes and have a small gap at one side. the former are very strong, 1/2" is rated to 20,000lbs breaking, the latter are very weak, I have seen a 1/4" straighten under body weight! Don't worry i was testing it! if you like most climbing shops will sell you bolt hangers, pretty stainless things, rated to about 5000lbs breaking. I use 3/8 or 1/2" lagg screws to fix these to the wood. Lagg screws are sold at home depot! or your local dom ahem I mean hardware supply store.

If you want to hold body weight I would stay at least 1-1/2 inches away from the edge of th ewood unless you use oak! (you won't when you see the price!)

you could consider using steel pipe... and joining with fittings..
steel is very strong 45-65 ksi and lacks the hetrogeneities of lumber...

good luck
feel free to pm me with questions....

(in reply to RubberWitch)

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