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Nude and Fetish Photography - 2/23/2008 12:07:22 PM

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In a spurt of evolution, we FINALLY allowed ourselves to purchase a new digital SLR camera to replace our 35mm SLR. Of course, it was under the guise of the fact that we want a good camera for our honeymoon next year, but shhhhhhhhhh.

In any case, I've long had an interest in erotic photography and we have done a lot of it with a decent Sony point-and-shoot digital of ourselves and others. But now that we have a "real" camera, I want to look at doing things a lot better.

For those that have done the pro-amature stuff (or anyone that does things professionally), any tips or techniques you'd like to share?

What I got is a Nikon D40 with the base 18-55 lens and a second 55-200 telephoto. I am also looking at getting a shoe flash of some kind at some point, but it's a ways off since the SB600 is about $200 and the 800 is twice that.

Thanks

PS - Posted this in the Bondage Gear section because in a way it is a type of gear you might use for a scene, depending how you look at it :)

RE: Nude and Fetish Photography - 2/23/2008 3:38:19 PM

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Joined: 3/9/2006
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quote:

ORIGINAL: ThunderRoad

In a spurt of evolution, we FINALLY allowed ourselves to purchase a new digital SLR camera to replace our 35mm SLR. Of course, it was under the guise of the fact that we want a good camera for our honeymoon next year, but shhhhhhhhhh.

In any case, I've long had an interest in erotic photography and we have done a lot of it with a decent Sony point-and-shoot digital of ourselves and others. But now that we have a "real" camera, I want to look at doing things a lot better.

For those that have done the pro-amature stuff (or anyone that does things professionally), any tips or techniques you'd like to share?

What I got is a Nikon D40 with the base 18-55 lens and a second 55-200 telephoto. I am also looking at getting a shoe flash of some kind at some point, but it's a ways off since the SB600 is about $200 and the 800 is twice that.
Thanks
PS - Posted this in the Bondage Gear section because in a way it is a type of gear you might use for a scene, depending how you look at it :)

If you're shooting "Art" as opposed to snapshots, then you can could (and should) skip the on-camera flash.
It's something called a point source and it gives a Hard-light, i.e sharp shadows which exageratess wrinkles and hair. For flattering portraits of flesh you want light to hit it gently and evenly. For soft lighting sunlight, which is gentle and comes from everywhere, try shooting outdoors on a overcast day. If it's a sunny day with bright exposed skin, then reflect some sunlight the otherway, with reflectors to remove the shadows. Indoors, point your spotlights at the walls, or through thin white sheets.

Lens have many factors regarding quality
Check the Aperture or F number. It's a fraction so F8 = 1/8ths of the light is allowed in. Or 7/8th's of light hits the sides and is wasted Typically the smaller the number the better the lens and the bigger the price.
However aperture also affects the focus (depth of field) . So if you want a photo of someone standing in front of a mountain, then you want as narrow as possible eg F64 or even a pinhole lens, to get them both in focus.
If you want just the girl in focus then use a wide aperture, like F5.6, so they are in focus and the background is a soft out of focus fuzzy blur.
And if you want just a girls body part in focus, then use a really wide aperture like (F1.8) so their swollen clit is in focus, but the face is out of focus

A prime (non moving lens) will give crisper (glass is fixed), higher contrast (less glass in the way) wider aperture (shorter length) photos for a cheaper price than a Zoom lens. Zoom lenses offer more flexibility for travelling, but need to make massive quality tradeoffs.
If you must use a zoom, you'll get sharper results in the middle than the extreme ends of the zoom range.

When shooting people, the length of the lens affects the perspective. So a short "wideangle" lens like 15mm, will make the foreground appear bigger than the background. This makes for some fun, distorted body parts shots, but for serious portrature, use a 70mm+ to make everything in proportion

Tripods are for reducing camera shake in romantic i.e "effing dark" enviroments, plus you can get into front of the camera with a timer.

There's also stuff like ISO, but there's not really any right answer. Some people like smooth (slow shot, low ISO), others like gritty (Quick shot, high ISO)

Just find something you like and claim it's your style.

< Message edited by Rafters -- 2/23/2008 3:47:27 PM >

(in reply to ThunderRoad)

RE: Nude and Fetish Photography - 2/23/2008 5:45:16 PM

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here's a website for some ideas.. email Lew, tell him I sent ya.. I'm sure he'd be happy to share ideas and knowledge :)

http://biglew.com/

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RE: Nude and Fetish Photography - 2/23/2008 8:32:54 PM

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I found a lot of good photgraphy information on model sites too. I'm pretty much deciding that my little cannon digital is going to need a big brother soon.

< Message edited by Leatherist -- 2/23/2008 8:33:39 PM >

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RE: Nude and Fetish Photography - 2/23/2008 11:48:02 PM

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I am a canon user. But a good portrait lens would be something like a 70 - 200 f2.8, or a 50 mm f1.8. As for a flash setup, yes a softbox would be good, but I would suggest as your just starting out to purchase a decent swivel head flash, and a reflector. check out www.flickr.com/awdphotography and look at my portraits. I dont have any fancy setup and I get good results :)Good luck with your new acquisition! You'll love photography!

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RE: Nude and Fetish Photography - 2/23/2008 11:55:48 PM

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quote:

ORIGINAL: andrew77uk

I am a canon user. But a good portrait lens would be something like a 70 - 200 f2.8, or a 50 mm f1.8. As for a flash setup, yes a softbox would be good, but I would suggest as your just starting out to purchase a decent swivel head flash, and a reflector. check out www.flickr.com/awdphotography and look at my portraits. I dont have any fancy setup and I get good results :)Good luck with your new acquisition! You'll love photography!

Thanks Andrew. I'm going to be looking for models, and I really need to get a decent set up and practice first. Your work is beautiful, and I love the way you used the natural light to get the effects.

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RE: Nude and Fetish Photography - 2/24/2008 7:39:51 AM

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Am glad I can be of help :) Post some stuff when you are ready!

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RE: Nude and Fetish Photography - 2/24/2008 7:55:23 AM

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Hey guys! This is actually my first post on here in a LONG LONG TIME, but I do semi-pro photography using a Nikon D-80 and a D-40x as my backup camera.

My first suggestion to you, ThunderRoad, is to never EVER use the internal flash! It'll waste the abilities of that fine camera, and flatten out the image like you took it with a point-and-shoot camera!

Second, for professional looking shots, defocused backgrounds or controlled backgrounds are KEY! The fuzzed-out look for backgrounds is the difference between a pro shot and a snap shot oftentimes. Here's and example from a recent photo shoot of mine:
First is a "snapshot"
http://photos-616.ll.facebook.com/photos-ll-sf2p/v164/123/106/33601616/n33601616_32039702_3439.jpg
Now, using a MUCH sharper lens, and example of the shallow depth of field:
http://photos-616.ll.facebook.com/photos-ll-sf2p/v164/123/106/33601616/n33601616_32039673_6546.jpg

Generally, if you're not a Nikon user, and you want SUPER SHARP depth of field like the second photo, you're screwed unless you have $800+ lying around, however the Nikon lens lineup is backwards compatible so that lenses from as far back as the 1959 Nikon F lenses WILL STILL WORK WITH A NIKON D-40 DSLR!!!!!!!!

Since the Nikon D-40's image sensor magnifies the focal length of the lens, stick to normal and short-telephoto "Prime" (fixed focal length) lenses. The lenses from my lense back are as follows:
Manual Focus/Manual Aperture/ Manual light metering... I'll explain in a minute
20mm f/2.8 uuber wide angle lens (functions as a 30mm f/2.8 on the D-40)
28mm f/2.8 super wide angle (functions as a 42mm lens on the D-40)
35mm f/2 wide angle lens (functions as about a 52mm f/2 on the D-40, or what the eye sees)
50mm f/1.4 "normal" lens/what the eye sees (SUPER sharp, gets a LOT of light, and extremely shallow depth of field. Functions on the D-40 as a 75mm f/1.4)
105mm f/2.5 (Called by some photographers "the best portrait lens EVER". will function as about a 160mm f/2.5, so it's good for those closeups)
135mm f/2.8 (functions as a 200mm f/2.8 on the D-40... GREAT for super tight closeups of faces or other areas)

Autofocus/Autometering capable
18-55mm kit lens
28-70mm f/2.8 AF-S (a newer pro lens)
80-200mm f/2.8 ED AF-S (5th generation pro sports/portrait telephoto lens)
70-300mm f/4-5.6 AF-S VR (a GREAT knock-around lens for vacations where you're shooting wildlife that are really far away)

As noted above, the older manual lenses are tack sharp, and take beautiful pictures. They will mount onto modern D-SLRs, and they will take pictures in "M" mode on your D-40's command dial. They will NOT, however, utilize ANY of the camera's light-metering abilities. This is where digital photography's "instant gratification factor" of being able to see a shot right after you take it comes in handy!

The lack of light metering with the AI-series Nikkor lenses makes them useless for event photography, however for carefully planned portrait settings they are worth their weight in gold!!!

In M-mode, adjust the speed using the camera's command dial. Adjust the aperture using the ring on the lens. Keep an eye out for your focus indicator light (which STILL WORKS! with the manual lenses) which should be on the bottom left of your viewfinder. If you put the camera into spot meter mode (consult your manual), you can get a spot focus indicator on any of the D-40's focus areas!

Take a bunch of test shots (1 gig SD cards are ~$9-15... buy a few, they hold 500 shots each) and experiment with different shutter speeds, and take advantage of that full, open aperture! I generally fill out a lighting card at the beginning of a shoot, and test all of the lenses I plan on using. Here are some results with "blind" light metering once it's zeroed in:
50mm f/1.4 @ 1/60th, ISO 200
http://photos-616.ll.facebook.com/photos-ll-sf2p/v164/123/106/33601616/n33601616_32039658_4432.jpg
105mm f/2.5 @ 1/30th, ISO 200
http://photos-616.ll.facebook.com/photos-ll-sf2p/v164/123/106/33601616/n33601616_32039670_6088.jpg
105mm f/2.5 @ 1/30th, ISO 200
http://photos-c.ak.facebook.com/photos-ak-sctm/v185/123/106/33601616/n33601616_32049310_6495.jpg
135mm f/2.8 @ 1/20th, ISO 200
http://photos-c.ak.facebook.com/photos-ak-sctm/v185/123/106/33601616/n33601616_32049318_8939.jpg
http://photos-d.ak.facebook.com/photos-ak-sctm/v185/123/106/33601616/n33601616_32049319_9251.jpg
50mm f/1.4 @ 1/80th, ISO 200
http://photos-b.ak.facebook.com/photos-ak-sctm/v185/123/106/33601616/n33601616_32049321_9953.jpg

As you can see, the photos are SHARP, have very shallow depth of focus, meaning I can make the subject stand out any way I want to, and call attention to any one part of the image.

Lighting wise, I don't use much. I sometimes use hard spot lighting if I'm using a Diffusion filter (which I HIGHLY recommend, as well as a polarizing filter), and for those lights, I use cheap $6.00 clip lights with 100 watt bulbs from my local hardware store. I mainly use a $12.00 3-lamp light stand that I bought at Walmart, as seen here:
http://photos-b.ak.facebook.com/photos-ak-sctm/v185/123/106/33601616/n33601616_32049341_3108.jpg
A tip: use a piece of white poster board to bounce soft light onto the other side of your subject.

For backdrops, I use king-sized bedsheets and 3-M velcro sticky strips to affix them to a wall.

Here's why those manual lenses are 942818754 times better than the newer, autofocus ones:
-they are CHEAP. Go on eBay or to www.KEH.com and buy the lenses! The 50mm f/1.4 cost me $40 with shipping. the Autofocus version (50mm f/1.8 AF) which will NOT autofocus on the D-40 since it's not an AF-S lens costs $120. For the 105mm f/2.5, I bought that from KEH in like-new condition for $150 with shipping. A newer, AF version (again, not compatible with the D-40 AF-wise, but still metering) is over $600, $500 if you find it on sale (B and H has it for $569 right now).
-They are tried and true. These lenses have taken some of the best photographs of the 20th century.
-You will learn more about photography by manually controlling your aperture and shutter speed, and will eventually be able to spot meter by sight. Sounds goofy, but you'll see what I mean.

In summation:
-Buy a 50mm f/1.4 Nikkor and a 105mm f/2.5 Nikkor from eBay, KEH, or another TRUSTED online used camera retailer (check seller ratings and customer feedback!!!!)
-Buy a 52mm Diffusion filter and a 52mm Circular Polarizing filter. If your subject is pale, also consider a 52mm '812 Warming filter' from Tiffen.
-Buy a monopod with a rifle-rest or V-shaped attachement so you can rest your camera and get a steadier shot standing up, but quickly toss the monopod if you want to hand hold. Don't necessarily attach it to the monopod. Look in Walmart or Target's photo needs section and you can find one with those features for under $20. Tripods take too much setup/tear down time, and if your subject is all knotted up, they'll get all impatient and ornery.
-Control your background! Nothing screams "snapshot" like a cluttered background.
-Control your lighting!
-Set your shutter speeds ahead of time at open aperture, and once you have that, you're set.
-Take a look at other erotic/SM photography that fits your style and mimic those photos until you get a better feel for how to pose your subject, and experiment. If something looks cool, it probably is. Play with it... digital film is free!
-Focus, and snap away!

That's my advice to you, as a kinky college student who does this for fun and for a side job. As a broke college student, fun photo toys are generally out of my price range, and cut into my pizza and beer money (as well as my hardware store budget... rope ain't free!), so this is how I've gotten creative and saved (by my estimates) over $2000 from not buying the AF versions of the manual lenses I own... Which I then spent on pro lenses too. D'oh!

Feel free to message me if you have any questions!

(in reply to ThunderRoad)

RE: Nude and Fetish Photography - 2/24/2008 1:21:27 PM

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Thank you so much. This is all a lot of help. Of course, a lot of it is greek to me but it's a starting point for sure.

We got a "55-200mm f/4-5.6G ED IF AF-S DX VR Zoom Nikkor Lens" with the basic 18-55 kit lens as well, but it seems like if I get even remotely serious, I'll need to stock up on just as many lenses as I do BDSM toys!

I think if I can get a couple filters as well as a diffuser for my flash (found an inexpensive one for under $7 on ebay that clips infront of the onboard, that will help to soften the shots a lot. I do need to rethink overall lighting, but that'll be next.

Taking nude pictures is easy. Making them look good isn't!

(in reply to MasterToasty)

RE: Nude and Fetish Photography - 2/24/2008 2:11:52 PM

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Make sure that you compensate your exposures when using the onboard flash + diffuser! Those diffusers are great, but your camera will under-expose an image with the flash diffused (it's not aware that you're diffusing the flash, and won't meter accordingly).

Use your +/- EV button and dial it up to +.3 or +.7 to account for this!

Happy snapping, and feel free to share your shots!

btw, how does the 55-200 AFS VR handle on the D40? I've been thinking about getting one as a backup knock-around lens for my spring break trip to Cancun.

(in reply to ThunderRoad)

RE: Nude and Fetish Photography - 2/24/2008 3:04:18 PM

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I've been happy with the 55-200 all around, but it is not well suited for close work. I've been pretty much using the stock kit 18-55 for all of my fetish shots since I have a tendancy to get close and intimate with my victim ... er subject ... er model. Dunno if one of the 18-200s might be a better "universal" or not.

(in reply to MasterToasty)

RE: Nude and Fetish Photography - 2/24/2008 3:34:47 PM

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Ansel Adams once said that the 'best wide angle lens is a step or two back with a telephoto lens'... but one with a low f-stop, thus producing a shallower depth of field.

Once again, I recommend any further lens purchase go towards a 50mm f/1.4 AI Series Nikkor lens (with guess-and-check metering & manual focus) or an AF 50mm f/1.8 (which will meter, but you'll have to focus it). Also, I HIGHLY recommend that you get a 105mm f/2.5 AI series Nikkor lens. That focal length with such a wide aperture (low f-stop, lots of light, just the subject in focus) yields AMAZING nudes, portraits, and sports shots.

The 50mm f/1.4 focuses down to 1.9 feet, and will get you some very nice close in shots, but if you need that extra "pull" for closeness, slap on the 105mm f/2.5, which is a VERY powerful magnification at its minimum focusing distance of 2.5 feet.

Shallow depth of field:
http://photos-b.ak.facebook.com/photos-ak-sf2p/v164/123/106/33601616/n33601616_32015677_4963.jpg
http://photos-a.ak.facebook.com/photos-ak-sf2p/v164/123/106/33601616/n33601616_32015676_4721.jpg
Not shallow depth of field:
http://photos-d.ak.facebook.com/photos-ak-sf2p/v164/123/106/33601616/n33601616_32015683_6472.jpg

I unfortunately can't post my nude work, since a) my model would kick my ass, and b) I haven't found a site that lets me upload high-res shots and keep them 100% secure, but here's the difference in image quality in some PG rated shots from one of my favorite sets ever:
First with the 18-55 lens:
http://photos-c.ak.facebook.com/photos-ak-sctm/v185/123/106/33601616/n33601616_32049286_8050.jpg
Note how the background is "flattened" into the foreground and subject... there is little differentiation between the two in focus. My subject is 7 feet in front of a wrinkled tan bed sheet. Even at open aperture (f/3.5 @ 18mm), there is still deep depth of field. Great for architecture and landscapes, not for portraits.

Now with the 105mm f/2.5 lens at the widest aperture:
http://photos-d.ak.facebook.com/photos-ak-sctm/v185/123/106/33601616/n33601616_32049355_7400.jpg
Note how only her face is in focus, and the background, though it is the same distance away (she's tied to a chair at this point) is completely out of focus and non distracting. Even her shoulder begins to focus soften in this shot. Believe me when I tell you, when working with subjects as strikingly beautiful as this one, you don't want a lousy background taking away from the shot!

See the difference? Same thing applies with nudes. Make your subject "POP" out of the frame. Getting an 18-200 AFS VR gives you the same lens coverage that you ALREADY HAVE with the 18-55 + 55-200, with the SAME small aperture (high f-stop). That lens is great for a one-lens do-it-all setup, but for shots that you really want to look sharp, get some old school professional prime lenses (super sharp, fixed focal length lenses) for cheap, bro!

www.KEH.com
www.Adorama.com
or
Go to Ebay, and then go through their categories: Cameras & Photo>Lenses & Filters>Film Camera Lenses >For 35mm SLR > To fit Nikon

(in reply to ThunderRoad)

RE: Nude and Fetish Photography - 2/24/2008 7:51:35 PM

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(deleted because I am a doofus :)

< Message edited by ThunderRoad -- 2/24/2008 8:03:36 PM >

(in reply to MasterToasty)

RE: Nude and Fetish Photography - 2/26/2008 1:01:06 AM

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quote:

ORIGINAL: MasterToasty
Ansel Adams once said that the 'best wide angle lens is a step or two back with a telephoto lens'... but one with a low f-stop, thus producing a shallower depth of field.

Got a cite for that quote?
Ansel Adams was a founding member of "Group F/64" which is pinhole size, and gave a depth of field that stretched pretty much from your toes to the horizon if you shot hyper-focally
http://www.anseladams.com/index.asp?PageAction=VIEWCATS&Category=7

(in reply to MasterToasty)

RE: Nude and Fetish Photography - 3/2/2008 6:18:56 AM

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I would suggest that getting the light off the camera (if you need artificial lighting) is as important for what you seem to be after, as additional lenses. There are many possibiities in this regard, some that do not cost a lot. The Strobist site is very good one for getting your head around this. Some older flashes can be used that are not so expensive. And with the white balance capabilities in cameras like the D40, you are not restricted to flashes, but can use houshold lights as well.

The other key is posing and getting your model into the right frame of mind. This can be a big topic, but boils down more or less to rapport with the model.

The great thing about DSLRs is the instant feedback and the no cost way you can experiment. If it doesn't work, just delete. So go for it, try things out, don't wait, just do. That will teach you more about what you need in the long run than this type of discussion.

Cheers!

(in reply to Rafters)

RE: Nude and Fetish Photography - 3/2/2008 7:27:20 AM

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Just last week my lover and I did a photo shoot of both of us nude. It was her 1st time and I have done it before. It will be interesting to see how they come out. The thing is and we both agree on this, we will only show it to each other. But it was fun seeing how we could pose.

(in reply to gregor2001us)

RE: Nude and Fetish Photography - 3/2/2008 9:02:34 AM

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quote:

ORIGINAL: ThunderRoad

In a spurt of evolution, we FINALLY allowed ourselves to purchase a new digital SLR camera to replace our 35mm SLR. Of course, it was under the guise of the fact that we want a good camera for our honeymoon next year, but shhhhhhhhhh.

In any case, I've long had an interest in erotic photography and we have done a lot of it with a decent Sony point-and-shoot digital of ourselves and others. But now that we have a "real" camera, I want to look at doing things a lot better.

For those that have done the pro-amature stuff (or anyone that does things professionally), any tips or techniques you'd like to share?

What I got is a Nikon D40 with the base 18-55 lens and a second 55-200 telephoto. I am also looking at getting a shoe flash of some kind at some point, but it's a ways off since the SB600 is about $200 and the 800 is twice that.

Thanks

PS - Posted this in the Bondage Gear section because in a way it is a type of gear you might use for a scene, depending how you look at it :)

I have the nikon D50 and I am in no way an amazing photographer, i dont know all the terms etc etc. I found that learning how your camera works for you is the best way to start. I asked my friend to pose for me for about two hours in which I took full capacity of pictures playing with angles zoom the differant settings light . I find the flash is too harsh on people and far prefer natural light. The beauty of a digital camera is that it will set up focus etc for you initially so you can instantly take good photos. Once I had learned how the basics of the camera worked on auto I then started playing with it manually and looked at differant lenses and affects and gimp to edit photos. You will be amazed at the type of photos you can take simply by using a table lamp and lots of make up. You dont need all the gear you jsut have to learn what looks good and improve on that.

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RE: Nude and Fetish Photography - 3/2/2008 2:04:18 PM

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i take all my own pictures with a cheap 50 dollar webcam. i dont' know if i'd know what to do with a real camera lol.

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RE: Nude and Fetish Photography - 3/2/2008 3:35:37 PM

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Hey all. Just an update.

Coming along good. I've been doing a lot of practice shots with my girl. She scowls a lot because it's boring, but so far I'm getting a better sense of things. For my birthday later this month, I had an SB600 flash on my wishlist, and somebody purchased it for me, so that should be arriving soon. It can tilt so I can do some bounce-flash, and I picked up a cheap flash diffuser for it as well. Lighting is continuing to be my achilles, along with a pliable model :)

Also snagged a trio of lens filters - polarizing, diffusing and warming - to play with a little. They were all under $10 each, so I figured I couldn't go too wrong with having them. The warming one is really nice to have.

I've been still trying to fight with learning to focus the camera. I have a bad right eye (semi-botched Lasik), so I'm finding if I try to focus manually my shots end up blurry, so I'm having to rely on the auto. This has caused me some consternation as the camera is sometimes finicy about about what it might choose to focus on, and whether I might be just a wee-bit too close. If there are any tricks or suggestions in dealing with focusing, I'd love to hear them. However, due to my eye problems, I think getting one of the wholly-manual lenses discussed above, while possibly amazing for portrait and nude work, is not going to be an option for me.

In any case, still working out the nuances. The help here has been really great.

(in reply to christine1)

RE: Nude and Fetish Photography - 3/2/2008 4:53:13 PM

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quote:

ORIGINAL: christine1

i take all my own pictures with a cheap 50 dollar webcam. i dont' know if i'd know what to do with a real camera lol.

If everyone had you as a subject, none of us would need the expensive equipment...

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(in reply to christine1)

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